I have been busy. Not just with my usual round of exciting and glamourous activities, but with making socks and hats and things for Streetknit. Here is the men’s sock pattern I created from this excellent pattern. I have used it to make many socks, including the pair pictured here. If you don’t like using DPNs but still feel like knitting socks, here you go. If you don’t like to knit, or if knitting gives you a rash, please do not click.
Materials:
- Slightly less than one ball worsted weight yarn
- 6 mm needles
- yarn needle
Gauge:
Uh…I kind of have never checked, and I don’t have the finished products with me. It’s something like 4 sts/inch, but don’t quote me on it. Used worsted weight and 6mms and you’ll be fine.
Glossary:
- st = stitch
- k = knit
- p = purl
- k2tog = knit two stitches together
- s = slipstitch
- PSSO = pass slip stitch over
OK, here we go. Cast on 41 sts.
Knit 6-8 inches in K1,P1 rib. I usually am lazy and only do 6, but with 8 you get a nice fold-down top. End with a purl row.
Now we work the right heel:
Knit the first 11 sts, and work for 12 rows in stockinette st. Turn this side of the heel like this:
Row 1 – K2, K2tog, K1, turn, S1, P3, turn.
Row 2 – K3, K2tog, K1, turn, S1, P4, turn.
Row 3 – K4, K2tog, K1, turn, S1, P5, turn.
Row 2 – K5, K2tog, K1. You now have 7 sts on the right needle.
This is the most tricky step, but you will get it. Trust me. Now pick up 8 sts on the side of the heel you’ve just made.
Knit them and knit across the row. Now make the heel on the other side. Work the last 11 sts in stockinette sts for 13 rows, ending in a purl row. Shape the heel:
R1 – P2, P2tog, P1, turn, S1, K3
R2 – P3, P2tog, P1, turn, S1, K4
R3 – P4, P2tog, P1, turn, S1, K5
R4 – P5, P2tog, P1. Notice a pattern here? You should have 7 sts on this needle now.
Pick up 8 sts on the side of this heel and purl them; purl across the sock. You now have 49 sts.
Now it’s time to shape the instep.
R1 – K13, K2tog, K2tog, K15*, S1, K1, PSSO, S1, K1, PSSO, K13. 45 sts.
R2, and every other even-numbered row – P.
R3 – K11, K2tog, K2tog, K15, S1, K1, PSSO, S1, K1, PSSO, K11. 41 sts.
R5 – K9, K2tog, K2tog, K15, S1, K1, PSSO, S1, K1, PSSO, K9. 37 sts.
R7 – K7, K2tog, K2tog, K15, S1, K1, PSSO, S1, K1, PSSO, K7. 33 sts.
R9 – K5, K2tog, K2tog, K15, S1, K1, PSSO, S1, K1, PSSO, K5. 29 sts.
Work in stockinette until the sock measures 8″ from the back of the heel. This may not take very long. In fact, you will probably almost be there already.
Yes, that’s right, Madeline was helping. Now shape the toe.
R1 – K4, K2tog, K2, S1, K1, PSSO, K9, K2tog, K2, S1, K1, PSSO, K4. 25 sts.
R2 and every other even-numbered row: P.
R3 – K3, K2tog, K2, S1, K1, PSSO, K7, K2tog, K2, S1, K1, PSSO, K3. 21 sts.
R5 – K2, K2tog, K2, S1, K1, PSSO, K5, K2tog, K2, S1, K1, PSSO, K2. 17 sts.
R7 – K1, K2tog, K2, S1, K1, PSSO, K3, K2tog, K2, S1, K1, PSSO, K1. 13 sts. Do not cast off – break the yarn.
Now, using Kitchener stitch (which I don’t really understand myself) or just your native ingenuity, weave in the toe and sew the back seam. Make sure you use a flat stitch so the fortunate recipient of the sock doesn’t feel an uncomfortable ridge under their foot. Weave in and trim all yarn ends.
Then put the socks on or pass them on to someone whose feet are in need of warmth and comfort.
*This number, and all the middle numbers, are a trifle fudged – you might find they are not correct. What matters is that you keep the end numbers symmetrical so the decreases are neat.
